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vs commodore ute starting issue

 
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krazyoztralien



Joined: 18 Oct 2007
Posts: 1328
Location: Streets of SYDNASTY


PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:38 am    Post subject: vs commodore ute starting issue Reply with quote

My daily driver cranks but wont start. I thought it mite be a weak battery so i gave that charge on the trickle charger over night battery is only 6 months old same with spark plugs and leads. It also coughs and sounds like it back fires but wont start and idle. Anyone had similar issues? I hate cars with plastic and computers
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Steve



Joined: 16 Oct 2007
Posts: 3008



PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecotec engine ?
suggest it could be time to replace crank angle sensor

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"Under steer is where the nose of your car hits the wall and over steer is when the ass end of your car hits the wall. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you after you hit it."
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krazyoztralien



Joined: 18 Oct 2007
Posts: 1328
Location: Streets of SYDNASTY


PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah ecotech v6 3800. Futher inspection seems i have a coolant leak in between the intake manifold on the left side near the valve cover that dribbles down under the plenum chamber. Would that be causing the spluttering? Enuff for it to not idle. I fault coded it and it didnt seem to gimme any codes. Probley cause it reset the ecu when i disconnected and charged the battery
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Bale9



Joined: 15 Sep 2014
Posts: 150
Location: Newcastle


PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is sorta spluttering, then starts and blows black smoke i would be looking at a fuel drain back issue.

Check
- Fit fuel gauge and see if it maintains pressure when turned off... Sometimes it may take a while. Theoretically it should maintain pressure indefinitely.
- Once confirmed you need to see which way it is draining back. Crimp off the supply and see if the pressure drops off. If not, do the same on the return. then maybe both.

Potential issues could be:
- Dribbling injectors
- Fuel pressure regulator leaking from the fuel side into the air vacuum side
- Fuel pump not holding pressure


if it cranks then all of a sudden it fires up like nothing was every wrong, it can get a bit tricky. Common faults on the ecotec's were:
- Crank angle sensor
- DFI module. Sometimes removing the connector and crimping the terminals worked... Sometimes, more on the rare side.
- Could be your remote screws are loose. It earths via the key shaft. Tighten them up. Or the remote might be on the way out.. If you have a spare try that.

Good luck with it, let us know what you find.

Cheers

Bill
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NFORCR



Joined: 22 Apr 2012
Posts: 434
Location: Sydney


PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:38 pm    Post subject: Magna Reply with quote

I had a 2005 magna. Flat battery so i swapped it out than couldn't get it to run. If i held accelerator it ran rough when let go it shut down.

NRMA came. Said computer lost it tune. Bumped the idle screw up to around 1200 rpm. Enough to run. Said drive a day or two to let the computer remap and than turn it back down to 720.

He was on the money.

The other thing to try is you could have a fuel leak and this cold weather would want more fuel at startup.

Turn your key to reds for 5 secs to let your pump prime the system. Turn off and repeat a second time than fire it up.

If its good than live with it. If it bothers tou take it to a mechanics and do a leak down test overnight and see if theirs a fuel leak somewhere. Could be injector seal or somewhere else on the rail.
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Iroczvinnie



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 96



PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

simple thing, but is there a transmitter in the key? A dying battery in the key can also cause hard starting. Our mitsubishi had a hard start issue - it wouldn't start for my wife or would crank a while (her daily driver). With my key it had no problems. Replaced the battery in the key and problem solved.
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LX_SS



Joined: 28 Jan 2013
Posts: 83



PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Other than what the others so far have suggested.

Common problems are coil packs dying and fuel regulators crapping themselves.

Do your basic checks, check each lead with a spare spark plug make sure each one has spark.
You want to check that your getting fuel pressure and the regulator is working correctly.

Other than those two its usually a sensor thats making it act haywire or the immobilizer playing with things.
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krazyoztralien



Joined: 18 Oct 2007
Posts: 1328
Location: Streets of SYDNASTY


PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it going again was the fuel pump.. what stupid engineer made it such a jigsaw puzzle going in from the side instead of pulling it out the top
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Steve



Joined: 16 Oct 2007
Posts: 3008



PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

take a look at the location of the fuel pump location on a 3rd gen camaro/trans am !
It is all about cost and Holden knew they would not have to replace a fuel pump before warranty ran out

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"Under steer is where the nose of your car hits the wall and over steer is when the ass end of your car hits the wall. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you after you hit it."
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